Fashion’s New Ground: Why Agriculture Regenerative is the Future of Fashion

Facing the challenge of achieving climate neutrality in the textile industry, the latest revolution involves relearning traditional cultivation methods to align production with earth-friendly guidelines. Investing in regenerative agriculture is becoming trendy. Since January 2021, the Kering group, which owns brands like Gucci and Balenciaga, in partnership with the environmental organization Conservation International, have spearheaded the Nature Regeneration Fund to boost the transition of a million hectares of conventional crops and pastures to regenerative agricultural practices aiming to restore ecosystem biodiversity. Similarly, the French conglomerate LVMH has collaborated with UNESCO to initiate regeneration programs addressing deforestation and soil desertification.

Fashion relies heavily on vast land areas to grow materials for our clothes. Specifically, about 36% of market fabrics are natural fibers sourced from agriculture, grazing, or agroforestry. However, intensive farming has led to soil degradation. Paloma G. López, director of The Circular Project and president of the Spanish Association for Sustainability, Innovation, and Circular Fashion (SIC Moda), highlights that regenerative agriculture offers a solution by returning to earth-centric practices, mirroring how things were done pre-industrial revolution. The approach emphasizes crop rotation, harmony with local species and livestock, avoids industrial fertilizers, and nurtures soil nutrients.

Although there’s no universal definition for “regenerative fashion,” it typically encompasses age-old agricultural practices updated to fit a specific ecosystem’s nature. Techniques like crop rotation and mixed farming are popular for preserving and renewing soil nutrients, while diverse species prevent pest spread. To reduce soil erosion, farmers use cover crops like oats or clovers, which bolster soil resistance with their roots and serve as natural fertilizers. Some also integrate livestock and grazing to keep their lands clean and nourished.

Textile Exchange has proposed guidelines to ensure the genuine application of regenerative practices: reduce tilling to conserve soil life, gradually cut down on GMOs, herbicides, and pesticides, and integrate livestock wherever feasible. A holistic perspective of regenerative fashion considers all stakeholders, from the soil to the cultivator and the conditions they work under.

Fashion brands have been investing in enhancing relationships within their supply chain, promoting Sustainability and Social Responsibility departments that have established fairer dynamics between farmers, suppliers, and producers. They prioritize traditional craftsmanship, share resources, and seek collective solutions.

Above all, regenerative fashion is significant in the face of climate change. Not only does healthy, diverse soil produce climate-resistant crops and fibers, but regenerative practices also improve the soil’s carbon sequestration capability. Data from Barcelona’s Center for Ecological Research and Forestry Applications (CREAF) from a three-year pilot project suggests that regenerative soil captures 30 times more atmospheric carbon than conventional soil and increases its water retention by around 20%. Applied to the textile industry, this means it can be a vital tool in achieving the sector’s coveted climate neutrality.